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Quote25.10.2017 23:470 people like thisLike



Here are two options for O-rings in my valve bank:


Valve Bank O rings options

My camera doesn't take the best close ups, but the blurry one on the right is the urethane.


Here's what one slice of the valve bank looks like:


Valve Bank

Three O-rings per side.

I'm getting close to the point where I can put the valve bank together again.

Quote21.10.2017 21:490 people like thisLike

Just testing . It appears that the photo uploader still works . So you don't have to use links from hosting sits





































Quote20.10.2017 02:060 people like thisLike

This old school rig uses a three stage hydraulic pump. I'm guessing it runs in the 4,000-6,000 psi range.

These are the forerunners of the modern excavators and back hoes.

Maybe when they designed them, they felt that the higher pressures would work best.

Honestly, I'm a little in the dark at this stage.


As mentioned, the right valve bank was removed several months ago.

The issue was a severe hydraulic fluid leak.

Here is one valve in the bank:





Valve bank upon removal

From top to bottom you can see a seat with no O-ring,

A Urethane O-ring (circled in red) which is in place, but extremely fragile and

A Urethane O-ring (circled in green) which is in really bad shape.

This was probably the one which leaked the worst.


I was able to source some reasonably priced Urethane O-rings from:


Joel Palmer

Industrial Rubber and Supply

San Bernardino, California


He custom made them for less than $1 each.

I found some original butyl O-rings and bought those as well from another source, but Joel felt that the Urethane would hold more pressure and last longer than the Butyl.

The problem is exposure to weather.

In the Summer, the direct sun will heat the valve bank in excess of 200F when the crane is parked and not circulating fluid.

This really damages the O-rings, no matter what the material.

If the Urethane fails, I can go to silicone.

For now, I'm going to give the Urethane a try.


Anyone know how to edit your old posts?

I could go back and fix some of the old missing pictures.


Last for today, a general look at the truck again.

This picture was taken 6 months ago and I'm trying a canopy for fit.

Also you can see the seat.

I'm experimenting with the HTML link; this one is a medium sized photo:


General View


Maybe it is too small?

Quote19.10.2017 16:590 people like thisLike

that's some serious pressures your dealing with!!

cat 941B, D3b, D2 4U, D4 7U
Quote17.10.2017 17:260 people like thisLike

The hosting site wanted $400 a year, not $400 a month. Sorry about that.


This Bucyrus Erie Hydrocrane has a pump which runs in the 4,000 to 6,000 psi range.

So it was important to get pressure gauges which top out at 10,000 psi.

One arrived today:


New Pressure Gauge

Quote16.10.2017 03:170 people like thisLike

Thank you for your patience.

My pictures, carefully uploaded and embedded for you were blocked by the hosting site unless I paid $400 per month, but I think we're up and running now.


Here is a picture (hopefully) from the operator's seat, showing HALF of the valve bank removed for seal replacement:






Valve bank, Right half removedThe valve bank on these old crane trucks is susceptible to leaks if the trucks are left out in the sun.

This unit is being repaired and the O-rings used will be an upgrade from the original butyl ones.

It will get some urethane O-rings as you shall see.


Sorry for the loss of photos below.

I haven't stopped working on the restoration; but I did stop posting until I figured out a way to photo document my work.


Lots more to come, hopefully!



Quote27.01.2017 15:340 people like thisLike

This has to be my favorite site.

No problems, no naysayers, no stress.

The past few months have been spent getting my tooling up to speed.

New compressor, new impact and so on.

One thing I overlooked was a plain and simple one inch combination wrench:

One Inch Combination Wrench

Silly to post a picture of such a basic wrench, but I'm easily entertained.


Now, we get to a little more of the technical side of the truck.

The control panel of the hydraulics leaks.

I sourced a back up panel.

Back Up Panel

Which got a thorough cleaning.

That puppy is heavy.

It will be a source of spare parts if necessary.


Hopefully, I'll get it running and start posting videos by the end of 2017.

At least that's my New Year's Resolution....

Quote20.09.2016 19:340 people like thisLike

First time in 2 months, we had some rain!

I probably should make a long laundry list of what needs to be done.

For now, one thing at a time gets the job done.

Quote14.09.2016 15:270 people like thisLike

Here's a peek at the front wheel and tire upgrade:

First Coat

The old tire would never pass an inspection!

Quote12.09.2016 19:300 people like thisLike

The glove box was easy.

$15 and two hinge springs later:

Glove Box

Another $7 and we will have the correct glove box knob.


Most of the little projects are 'nice to have' but are not 'need to have'.

Next we will take a look at the front wheels and tires.

Quote28.08.2016 13:150 people like thisLike

All right. That block of wood has to go!

Hood repair

That was a 'before' picture, and you can see the latch on the right (passenger) side. It wasn't working.

So all it took was a bit of adjustment, and even though it is difficult, now it latches the hood to the body.

Let's take a look from the side:

Hood Side View No Paint

The hood lines are basically straight and match the fender once we get the hood closed.


BUT, it needs paint - big time!

So, let's fart around with it some more:

Hood with some paint

The cab is beginning to take shape.


Here's a wider angle view:

Hood with 1/3 Paint

and we begin to see the beauty of the beast!


Hope you have enjoyed this update.

Next I've got to look at that glove box.


Quote28.08.2016 13:010 people like thisLike

Let's talk parking light lenses.

Upon purchase, it had none.

Then I found a used pair.

Now we've got some new ones.

Here you can compare the old and new:

1 new parking light lens

The left side has an old turn signal and an old parking light lens.

Also notice the block of wood holding down the hood during high winds.


Next, we look at the two new lenses installed:


Parking Lights

One seems lighter than the other.

Let's take another look:

Two different amber lenses

It is because the housings are different inside - one is painted white.

We can worry about that later.


Once I get the hood pictures to upload, I'll update this thread.

Quote26.08.2016 09:260 people like thisLike

Two weeks have passed.

The weather has started to cool and that means more progress.

Let's keep it simple.

Here's an engine hour meter that hasn't seen voltage since day one:

Hour Meter

It is a Datcon model.

They are common in airplanes, and are the Cadillac of hour meters. (expensive)

This baby read 0000.0 hours when I pulled it out of the old instrument panel of the junkyard crane I salvaged.

After applying 12 volts for 6 minutes, it now reads "0000.1" hours.

And that is correct!

Amazing it works after all these years.

All I can guess is that they installed it but never wired it correctly.


Once the rear deck engine is dialed in correctly, I will wire it in and use it to monitor engine hours.

That way, it will get oil changes on a regular basis per engine hours, not time which has passed.


That's about it for August; the next update will be more on the hood/cab.

Quote12.08.2016 02:080 people like thisLike

Weather has been seasonably hot, slowing my progress.

No pictures in this post, but looking at that oil pressure gauge (below) reminded me that I scored a 'new' hour meter. Actually, it was an old meter which was installed on another unit incorrectly and  still read zero hours. I tested it for 6 minutes, and it now reads 0000.1 hours.

It should come in useful for future maintenance.

Also, I've pulled a rear sheave guard off for painting, as well as the bench seat in the front cab.

Our 1927 Singer 99K sewing machine will be put to work making the upholstery for it.

A little maintenance on that old machine was in order, as well as obtaining the correct thread and upholstery material.

The old power steering unit and drag link will need to come off and be rebuilt, but I've had good success with a replacement unit that I found.

The power steering pump and reservoir are cleaned and put away until they can be rebuilt and mounted.

It looks like new hoses will complete the steering.


I think I've got enough tools to finish what I've started.

To be on the safe side, I got a higher pressure compressor with a smaller tank.

Maybe we can piggyback a larger tank into the lines at some point.

Looking at the different options, galvanized pipe will be the backbone of the distribution system because black pipe is now more rare and more expensive locally.


Quite a laundry list of things to do; one by one, little by little they all get done.


...until next time!!!

Quote11.07.2016 20:080 people like thisLike

I'm not 21 anymore, so I thought I'd throw $100 at this 1 inch impact wrench:

New Tool

...and I picked up a new compressor to power it.

Let's see if that helps any!

Quote25.06.2016 08:060 people like thisLike

Now for a little paint.

Trying to dial in the body color, which was originally "Holly Green".

Here's the front fender and part of the grille:

Fender Paint

Compared to the hood, a definite improvement.


Now take a look at the door:


Passenger door paint

It is easier on the eye than this:


Passenger View

No, it doesn't make it run any faster, but in this triple digit heat, having decent paint covering the metal actually is better for the underlying metal.

If it is bare metal in the sun, no way you can touch it without gloves.


Although the color is close, it is still too light.

I will continue with this color: 'cruise blue' until it is consumed. Then I will try a darker color. Cruise Blue? It sure looks like a green to me.


Rear deck cleaning continues...hope your weather isn't as extreme as ours.

Can't get much done after 10 am.

Quote02.06.2016 11:100 people like thisLike

Sound advice.

This unit was owned by a small construction company and was replaced by 2 newer& identical crane trucks.

The company has been successful and has replaced those 3 crane trucks with even newer models.

So this truck has been sitting for a long, long time, held in reserve as a back up unit just in case.

The metal is sound; some seals need replacing.

Even though it is tempting, I haven't fired up either of the two engines.

The rear deck engine has a water pump leak, or so I'm told.

If they overheated that engine, it will need new rings at the least.

Better to find out now, while it is being cleaned and painted than when in the middle of lifting a heavy stone.

Again, (like you said), testing is more important to me at this stage than its ability to work.


No matter how rudimentary, this crane truck opens new doors.

Another project would be transplanting 14 of our palm trees which might otherwise end up in a landfill, as no one would burn the trunks.

However, they are old and tall enough to be interesting to a large company as decoration.

I've seen them used by municipalities in center divider projects, malls, apartment complexes and restaurant chains.

If transplanted into suitable containers, they can be offered for $1000 each, and can continue to live until sold.

(Now who's the tree hugger?) Cool


Still another project would be trimming of the large eucalyptus trees on the property. These cranes can be fitted with a fairly large basket suitable for such a purpose. Working alone would be a problem, but with two people, you could trim easily, comfortably, and safely.


Old machinery was often built to last if properly maintained. This one simply fell out of favor with the previous owner.

It will need to find a place in the shade, because out here, the sun is our major enemy, not rust.

If I can keep it out of the direct sun when not in use, it probably will outlast me, and it probably won't develop leaks as quickly.

Most people do not realize that temperatures in the direct sun exceed 200F during the heat of a Summer day in the Southwest USA because temperatures are given for an area in the shade. This plays hell with rubber (seals).

But if kept out of the direct sun, the temps rarely exceed 110F, and that is fine for most seals and O-rings.


I have been EXTREMELY lucky finding odd ball parts for this truck.

The retarder pedal was one of my first unusual parts to seek.

Power steering parts, attachments, and remote control parts pretty much complete the list.

So far, most needed parts have almost fallen into my lap, as outlined in the pictures below.

Next, a couple of attachments will increase the truck's abilities.

Remote control parts are mostly a dream, but may eventually be found.


Pride of ownership is a key point to mention. Taking the time to clean the old crane up, paint it, and bring it back into specs for safe work should bring a great deal of satisfaction. Besides, who can afford a new one? I can't.

There is a clamshell attachment available a few hours away for $900, but I'm not able to go get it with my equipment in its current state.

These large pieces of equipment take patience, determination, and it is nice to have a sense of pride in what you do.


My oldest truck is a '32 Ford which I've modified over the years: Jaguar rear end, Chevy V-8, automatic will lift the front end off the ground 6" under the right conditions.

With this '63, I'd like to rebuild it as close to original as possible with a few modern upgrades if possible: heater/defroster, A/C, sound deadener and perhaps even a nice radio. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel.

So far, so good.


I will test and know its limits before lifting heavy rock into the back of my '51 Chevy 6400 stake bed, and before lifting those rocks on top of each other building a gateway arch. Hopefully the reach will be as short as possible.


Quote25.05.2016 20:430 people like thisLike

Depends on the weight of the stone and the reach---when i was working on an inlet jetty a 50 ton-70 ft stick linkbelt had a lot of trouble placing 20 ton stones--test and know its limits before doing too much

cat 941B, D3b, D2 4U, D4 7U
Quote25.05.2016 16:040 people like thisLike

Both Laughing

On this forum, these are all 'toys' for the boys.


But I thought it might get a job lifting heavy stones into place to create a large entry arch.


You think it will be able to handle that?

Quote25.05.2016 10:310 people like thisLike

Good to see steady progress. Do you have a use for it once it is operational , or is it going to be a big toy ?

Quote22.05.2016 02:050 people like thisLike

Remember this?


Well now it is looking like this:

Cleaned for painting

but it still has a way to go before painting.

Here you can see the way they stamped the numbers into the cylinders in the old days:

Part numbers

And I bought a Chinese $15 adjustable hook spanner wrench to try with those brass gland nuts at the top:

Adjustable hook


Weather has been pretty windy, so no painting, just preparation.

I'm thinking it's about time to fix the leaks on the controls.

Quote12.05.2016 17:040 people like thisLike

Hello fellow ACME enthusiasts.

Here's my update for May 12th:

I had a visitor from Brisbane and that threw a monkey wrench into my repairs for a couple of weeks...ha!

He and his wife stayed nearby in the Miracle Springs Resort, Desert Hot Springs.

No idea what he did late at night with all those swimming pools, but we can venture a guess.


They were able to visit Disneyland, Las Vegas, Universal Studios, Palm Springs, took the helicopter view of the Grand Canyon, drove Route get the idea.


This update is mostly about tooling. I've acquired heavier duty hand tools to help me get the leaks fixed on this beast.

My 3/4" breaker bar just wasn't up to the challenge (see below), and so I found a new one to replace it.

It is a 2 footer so it will fit in my tool box. Plus, it has a lifetime warranty.

The cheater is 3.5 feet, and the combination seems to do what is necessary on the lug nuts.

Capri claims 998 foot pounds for their 3/4" breaker, and that's more than enough for anything on this unit.


A 1.25" socket had to be purchased,

and we will see how that goes. So far, it has held up.

Once the rear axle gets some attention, hopefully it will do the job.

It has the square 13/16" socket built inside the 1.25" hex socket.

Hopefully, it will also be sufficient to pull the rear wheels.


Speaking of the rear wheels, here are the 3/4 inch extensions which might work with that socket:

Rear Axle Extensions


An adjustable hook spanner wrench was ordered and hopefully will help removing the packing/gland nuts of the hydraulics on all but the boom hoist. That will require a wrench closer to 8 inches. Everything else looks to be around 4 inches.

If anyone has experience with these units, and their packing, I'm all ears...for now.

Sources for reasonably priced packing and seals could also be posted.


Banged out the dents on the rear deck radiator shell.

Next it gets paint. It isn't perfect, but it is a LOT better.


Weather has turned hot. That means work can continue early in the morning or late in the evening.

Little by little, it is taking shape. As usual, other projects get in the way, but all gets done.

Quote14.04.2016 14:330 people like thisLike

April 2016 update (basically, what I've done to it in the last six weeks)


Warranty plate transferred to new driver's door:

Warranty Plate

(Circled in red)


Measured Budd Wheels in rear:

Budd Wheels

They're the 1 1/2" hex & 13/16" square variety...


Test fitted the radiator shell sourced from a 1966 Ford 300:

Radiator Shell

It fits, but the Ford Industrial 300 engine is larger so the middle piece might not be a direct fit.

The two ends, radiator and pump should be fine.

I might have to get creative with the part which covers the engine.


Four pictures of the rear outriggers in the process of getting painted:

Outriggers 1



Outriggers 2

In this third shot, the lower part of the outrigger is getting some paint:

Outrigger 3

This last shot shows how the straps are out of the way, so I can paint the whole mess:

Outriggers 4

There are still a couple more photos to share showing the outrigger painting progress, but it really dresses up the rig.


Next we move to the nose for two pictures.

First a few red highlights on the yellow nose:

Nose Highlights

It isn't much, but was fun to do and again, gives it a nice look.


Here's the Bucyus Erie Hydrocrane sign straightened out and put back in place:

Straightened Sign

The wire rope (cable) was catching it back in the old days and no one bothered to fix it.

At least one side is flush with the boom, so it probably won't catch the cable.


Now we move back to the rear outriggers again and take a look at the progress later in the Month of March:

Rear Outrigger Progress 1

The radiator shell is off, the rear outriggers are done (except for one holiday on the right side at the bottom...oops) -

and we've got a clean deck around the engine. That should help me keep fairly clean while going through the engine and radiator.


Here's the view from the other side:

Hydraulic Tank Paint

I put a quick first coat on the hydraulic reservoir.

The gantry is starting to get some fresh paint.

Man, this thing was neglected!


Next to last, a quick view from behind the driver's (left) door, looking at the pump:

Pump Deck Paint

Again, getting a clean working surface going and looking forward to covering the pump with the heavy metal cover I found, but first that crazy spaghetti line at the 9 o'clock position has to be rerouted.

The Company which owned this ended up buying a total of 3 of these units.

This was the oldest unit, and the deck was covered in a mixture of hydraulic oil and dirt.

Knowing that oil travels down and back, I think I've figured out where the biggest problem was on the rear deck.

You can spot it in this final picture of this post.


The oil was leaking from the chevron fittings in the vertical rams of the gantry system.

Take a look:

Leaking Verticals

This is just one; there are two and they both look the same.

I'm hoping the cylinders are still decent, and it is just a problem with the packing.

They didn't have a Factory Manual as far as I can tell, but I was able to find one, or at least parts of one.

According to the $2 manual (original price in the 1960's), you don't have to remove the rams to rebuild them.

They can be repacked in place.

So that's the plan once I get the deck cleaned up.

The manual wants you to run the pump to help with the packing process, so that puts the engine higher up on the priority list.

Working alone, outdoors, in between other projects, this truck doesn't get repaired as quickly as others, but still, it all gets done.

Right now we've got a windstorm going, so nothing will get done for a few days.


The cab is progressing as well. I've wire brushed the floor to metal and will paint it.

Now that they have decent sound deadener, I'll put that on top of the paint, some felt, and then some kind of rubber mat.

The battery cover is in good shape. It just needs some paint.

The bench seat will stay as is; we've purchased a seat cover which will have to do for now.

Our local tool supply house (Harbor Freight) hasn't had the heavy duty jackstands on sale, so I'll just use wood and block up the front end while I do the brakes and power steering.


If I had to characterize this truck with one word, I'd have to say: "leaks".

The problem with the unit revolves around leaks.

Parts are not a major issue. Most can be found if a guy is willing to spend some cash.

Bucyrus Erie built these things using commonly found materials and parts.

The original quality of workmanship is excellent. Problems seem to involve short cuts in maintenance and upkeep.

Once the leaks are brought under control, then it can be fitted with better hydraulic hoses, electrical wires, fuel lines, and brake lines.

Of course, the brakes are usually a problem with older trucks - only from the standpoint of neglect.

My '51 Chevrolet 6400 is a good example. I spent some serious time bringing the brakes back up to par. Now they are trouble free.

This '63 has similar style brakes: vacuum assisted hydraulics with one addition: a M1CO brake actuated by an electrical dash switch.

At one time it had a complex system to control it remotely from the rear deck; that sadly has been mostly removed.

Again, the truck fell victim to cost effective repairs.


Speaking of hydraulics, this unit has 14 hydraulic rams: outriggers = 8, crane has 2, gantry has 2, and deck has 2.

Most will need attention. (you've seen above the condition of the two main verticals); the 2 boom rams also leak, but not nearly as much.

That's a lot of work, but I expect to get a lot of work out of this unit, so the repairs are worth it.


Til next time, best regards!

Quote02.03.2016 16:320 people like thisLike

Beginning of March, 2016 update (two week update):


Parking lights installed:

Parking Lights

as well as some sunshine protection behind the windshield/windscreen.


Replacement driver's door installed:

Driver's Door

and it shuts easily.

Sorry, picture taken late in the day, so not too clear.


Cab floor, driver's side, prepped for paint:


The kick panel will get Holly Green.

The floor will get white.


Passenger/right side view:


Emergency brake will have to be moved forward. It is adjustable.

The battery cover also needs a little help to fit better.


Comparing the left and right doors:



Replacement matching Western mirrors installed:





A heat gun removed the old logos.

Next, wire brush or wire wheel and finally sandpaper before it is primed.


Left door paint couldn't take the heat...ha!

Left Door

and you can see the heat gun on the wooden blocks.


Last but certainly not least, a bit of paint on the rear deck:

rear deck paint


Also, you can see the orange nylon strap vs. the weathered yellow nylon rope.

I'm going to try those straps so I can remove the rope and paint the outriggers.


A fresh coat of paint gives a dramatic increase in appearance, in my humble opinion.

The red was painted with one of those sponge brushes.

It was my first time to try those.

Maybe they have their place, but I prefer the old fashioned brushes.


Weather here in California is heating up.

We should be into triple digits (100F+) within 14 days.

But the little crane truck was able to weather the mild Winter.

Quote15.02.2016 01:070 people like thisLike

A little love on Valentine's Day weekend for the F-804.

First, headlight surrounds:

Headlight Surrounds White


Hood latches need some work.

Also snuck a turn signal into the picture...Cool


Now for some cosmetics.

Nose Job:


Nose Job


Toying with the mirror brackets:


Mirror Brackets


Unfortunately the yellow paint did not pass the 'Wife' test.

It looks like those will go white.

Same with the wheels.



And last - a little more paint on the main boom:


Main Boom


The parking lights are in, and a large piece of cardboard has been cut and placed in the windshield to protect the cab from our desert sun.


This month: replacing the driver's door, more cleaning of the rear deck, and more painting. Those of you hard core mechanics will have to wait for the heavy duty fun stuff!


If anyone has an extra Hydrohoe attachment lying around, I'll work it into the thread, but for now, as is my style, watch the old truck come back to life pretty close to original trim.


Quote26.01.2016 20:010 people like thisLike

Thanks for that.

Those old Mack Trucks are pretty tough.

I had a RS700L Dump truck with a 13 speed Roadranger.

It only had 4 forward gears when I bought it.

A fairly simple fix got all the gears back up and running.

If I recall, I had to pull the top off the gearbox to fix it.

Tough truck.


The crane company put a couple of brass plates on the rear deck.

Here's one:

Serial Number

which gives the serial number and Model.


But the one which might interest you is the one next to it:

Patent Plate

Which lists patents in USA, Britain, Canada, Australia, France, India, Italy, North and South Rhodesia, and South Africa.

I'm wondering if you guys got any of them.

They were made for roughly 50 years and were popular with Municipalities and Construction Companies.

You could adapt it for many different tasks, depending on the attachments.


Accidents will happen, and I stumbled into one...big time...but it was a good one!

While looking for some used tires, I came across a scrap yard that was cutting a crane truck up.

It was almost identical to mine.

The guys gave me a SMOKIN HOT deal on a set of 6 wheels and tires: Michelin X's with almost no wear on them.

This was really need to dismount the old tires, put on used tires.

These came mounted and balanced!

So it looks like the truck will soon be able to pass a road inspection (the 'scales' in the USA).

Here's a glance at 3 of the tires:


Although you can't see it, the tread wear indicators show these will probably be the last tires to go on the vehicle.


I also got some needed parts from the other truck:

-control valves with labels and pressure gauges

-power steering unit, pump, & hoses

-automatic transmission to radiator hoses

-retarder foot pedal and linkage

-sheet metal for the rear deck engine

-spare hydraulic pump

-driver's door

-both side mirrors

-parking lights

-truck seat

-crane canopy (open style)

and a cable upgrade:

electric cable winch

which probably came standard on the later model crane (1966).

It goes behind the operators seat on the rear deck.

The starter motor winds the cable instead of the old fashioned hand crank.


All in all, the truck is probably done, as far as needed parts goes.

Amazing that I was able to find the retarder pedal and linkage.

Now it is just a matter of me cleaning it up, and putting it all together.


Sometimes you just get lucky.


...and yes, the you tube video of bgoathill was easy to open for me as well.

Quote14.01.2016 16:370 people like thisLike

The Ford is a great looking truck. One company here in Australia  Mounted cranes on B61 Macks .

Quote13.01.2016 22:570 people like thisLike



Call me a sentimentalist, but I'm really liking the two of them side by side, snow in the background:



Side by Side...

The one on the left is my daily driver.

Runs like a Swiss watch.

6 volt, all original.

65 years old.

Fires up on first revolution.

I'm the second owner and balanced the engine in the 1980's.

93,000 original miles.

Due for paint, some  maintenance (aren't they all?), and a good lube.


But this thread is about the one on the right.


Notice the gloss black on the bumper.

No matte black in my bloodstream.

Rear deck mounted Bucyrus Erie H-3 No. 124571 was manufactured in Evansville, Indiana.

The brass plate is still readable, 53 years later.

New turn signals have arrived - double filament to replace the original single filament units.

They can also work as parking lights when wired properly.

Sounds like a fun and easy upgrade.


Smile, you're on camera!














Quote11.01.2016 07:280 people like thisLike

2016 promises to be a decent year.

Here we have new paint on the gas tank and front wheel:

New Paint

and although the job isn't perfect, it sure dresses things up.

It makes the dents in the body stick out, no?


A little touch up on the nose of the boom:

Nose and Bumper

and the front bumper, with more on the way.

Compared with the first picture, you can see the improvement a little paint makes.

Hanging an old pair of coveralls on the front hook keeps me from bumping my head on the freshly painted piece.


Although the tires will have to be replaced, I thought it would be nice to spray them with a little 'wet shine' for contrast:

Overall Effect

New front turn signals have been ordered and are on their way.

I decided on double filament bulbs so I could run parking and turn signal lights off the top of the fenders.

If it becomes a problem with vision at night, it would be very easy to disable the parking light function.

Also, the red and yellow clearance lights for the outriggers have been located.

Once I get the 5 broken bolts drilled out and the holes retapped, then those will get installed.

That should give me a chance to paint them as well.

It probably would be a good idea to run a dedicated ground through the circuit, rather than rely on the mounting bolt grounds.

Wire isn't necessarily cheap, but every single wire to the clearance lights has been broken off completely, so running a double wire is just as easy as running one.



A significant amount of hydraulic fluid mixed with years of dirt coats the rear deck. And I mean it is ground into the paint.

Although it is nice to have a well oiled machine, perhaps a couple more weeks of cleaning, little by little will pay off.

There's no sense crawling around up there until it gets cleaned.

High on the list is a cleaning and rebuilding of the operators controls.


No pictures, but the hood doesn't shut evenly.

I've been fooling around with it, but the mystery of how to get that front down evenly escapes me.

The two latches have been pulled, but even without them, the hood doesn't sit as it should.

I can get the right side down, but not the left.

Eventually it will sit level. At least I hope so.


I picked up several colors to put on the truck.

You can see the black on the running board, step fuel tank, front bumper and hook.

White for the wheels and Ford lettering on the front.

Holly green is the actual body color of the cab and interior.

You've seen the yellow on the boom, and there will be red on the rear deck.


- It would be nice to fabricate or locate some sort of cab for that rear deck as well as some of the remote controls for the steering and braking.


- The power steering pump, coil, horns, and air cleaner are missing but probably can be sourced.


- The cab is missing the pedal and linkage for the Transmatic retarder.



Stay tuned for more paint!


Quote30.12.2015 09:280 people like thisLike

Yesterday it finally got moved to a location that isn't too obtrusive:


Home for the Holidays


Now I can work on it without disrupting the whole yard.



Taken as a whole, the project is overwhelming.

Taken a little bit at a time, it shouldn't be too bad.


For Example:

The glove box door is hanging open.

Glove Box Door


It is a small matter of $7.50 for a new pair of these:


Glove Box Springs


...door springs. Also they sell a pair of bumpers so the door doesn't open metal to metal.


A fairly inexpensive item will tidy up the cab quite a bit.


But don't get me started on the sun visors. They want $100 per pair!  Ouch.






Well, it is time to close out 2015.


Happy New Year!

Quote27.12.2015 23:010 people like thisLike

Not the smartest, easiest, or most reliable way, but the outriggers are up:

Outriggers Tied Up


Nothing like working on the gravel, but you have to take life as it comes.


It looks like I picked up a SUPERVISOR along the way:

The Boss!



Now that the outriggers are up, it is time to put this bad boy EXACTLY where I want it.

It has been sitting where we dropped it off the trailer for 10 days.


Quote26.12.2015 09:010 people like thisLike

Merry Christmas


The Crane is rated at 5 tons/10,000 pounds.


In '63, USA Manufacturers rated their equipment lower than what the piece could actually lift.

So it might be feasible for an operator to lift a heavier piece, depending on the individual circumstances.

The weakest link in the system is the hydraulic control O-rings, which can burst at the higher pressures.

Viton was beginning to be used in the 60's, so a good quality Viton O-ring replacement at the control valves might be a good idea.


This might amuse our members -

One rear wheel doesn't match the rest.

Here is what most of the wheels look like:

Rear Wheel

and a view of the other side:


3 Piece Rim


In 1963 Ford offered two types of wheels: disc and spoke.

These appear to be the three piece disc 20 inch.


Here is the wheel which at first glance doesn't match:


Odd Ball Rear Wheel


Down the road I might want to swap in the correct wheel because of rear fender clearance issues.



At this point, the first order of business will be the outriggers.

The original locks to keep the outriggers in the 'up' position never worked properly, or so I am told.

Once the outriggers drop to ground level, you've got a large boat anchor - that is another way of saying you can't drive the truck.


Smart men would figure out how to keep those outriggers up easily and reliably.


Quote21.12.2015 08:390 people like thisLike

Nice---any idea of the lifting capacity of the crane?

cat 941B, D3b, D2 4U, D4 7U
Quote20.12.2015 10:200 people like thisLike

Some run off a PTO.

This particular unit uses an inline 6 cylinder engine.


Here's a view of the left from the rear:

Left Rear View



and a close up of the engine:



Deck Engine


The water pump needs a rebuild immediately.

There are some modifications and missing sheet metal.


After 52 years it has now passed to the second owner.

Quote19.12.2015 16:270 people like thisLike

are the crane hydraulics driven by a PTO off the Ford??

cat 941B, D3b, D2 4U, D4 7U
Quote19.12.2015 00:440 people like thisLike


I can tell you quite a bit about the truck but not so much about the crane.

It dropped out of space and into the yard today.

This is the view out my front door:

Front door view


This isn't our oldest Ford, but it is our biggest.

I'll clean it up a bit.

Then move it.

Quote18.12.2015 15:250 people like thisLike

Nice!   I love old fords---currently have a 1965 f5oo dump---first ford was a 1958 f100 pickup

cat 941B, D3b, D2 4U, D4 7U
Quote18.12.2015 01:180 people like thisLike

Here's a new addition to the Forum.


It is a 1963 Ford F800 with a Bucyrus Erie H3 Hydrocrane.


Prior to Move



We will see what can be done to perk up the old rig.









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